About four weeks ago I was paging through one of my fiber arts magazines when I saw pictures of what I considered really beautiful cloth. It was, according to the accompanying blurb, the product of a husband and wife team using traditional Javanese batik methods in a contemporary way. Wow. I thought it would be great to meet them and see their work. Then, I spied an announcement of a workshop they were giving on Bainbridge Island, during my vacation! I signed up immediately, and last weekend attended the workshop.
The class was intense and exhausting. Two days was not enough, and I am still processing what I learned there. Nia, an American from Colorado, and her husband Ismoyo, from Indonesia, shared the teaching. They use traditional tools to apply wax, but in non-traditional ways. Their wax is a combination of highly refined parafin and pine resin which stands up to the repeated dips into dyebath after dyebath of napthol dyes. I have never used those dyes before, and was impressed with the color they produce in cold water. Unlike Procion dyes, they make strong colors without being garish. You dip the cloth into one of several napthol solutions and then in one of several solutions of diazo salts. The particular combination you choose determines what color you get. It is possible to put two samples in the same tub and get yellow on one and blue on the other because they had been soaked in two different napthols. It is like the old way of natural dyeing, in which the color you can get with any given plant material changes depending on what mordant you use. Unfortunately, the napthols and the diazo salts are very poisonous, so I won't be switching over.
We learned to apply wax with tjanting tools, which are like spouts on a handle, and with tjaps, which are elaborate metal stamps. Ismoyo has a very strong accent and he kept talking about shopping. I just didn't get it until I realized he meant tjapping. I use a tjanting here at home and figured I would have no trouble with it, but ha ha. Holding the cloth in one hand and scooping wax into the tjanting, getting it to the cloth and making a smooth mark with the other is very hard. I made many of the dreaded blots and have renewed respect for the Indonesians who have used tjantings so well for so long. Tjaps seem easier, but it is harder to regulate the temperature of the wax with them. I stamped away with pleasure, but when I dyed one cloth none of the marks I made came through because the tool/wax combo was too cool.
The most important technical information I came away with concerned wax removal. Silica salt is the magic key. Putting two cups of silica salt in the hot (not boiling) kettle of water and dunking the cloth vigorously removed the wax easily. Whew. I have already sent away for a gallon of it off the internet, trying not to mind that the shipping costs more than the jug. If it works for me as well as it worked at the class it will be worth it.
However, the most important lessons I received weren't technical. Nia and Ismoyo made a point of starting work with centering exercises, saying that creativity is not just a product of the brain, but the channeling of energies from without and within. Apparently many of the traditional motifs of batik are concerned with the meeting of the tangible with the intangible, and are thus infused with spiritual meaning, so making cloth has always been a meditative occupation. Indonesians call great cloth makers empu, which means both artist and wise person.