My walk the other day produced so many pictures that I want to share a little more. This is such a stunning area and the day, for January, was spectacular. Our family moved here in 1956 from the Mojave Desert. I was only four at the time and didn't have much of an idea about the size of the step my parents were taking, but all I have ever heard from them was about how we had come to paradise. It has always seemed so to me. In those days Seattle was a total backwater, and this area two hours to the north was like Sleepy Hollow. Nothing ever happened here. We were free to roam the woods and beaches like our dogs, who had no conception of leash laws and fences.
The park dates from the thirties, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, who left beautiful picnic shelters, rock bridges, and miles of trails that led to the scores of exquisite vistas. We visited it often on our own and always brought our desert cousins when they came up from California. I've been walking here for a long time.
One of the most charming things about the park for me is that it is essentially the same as when I was a child. There are some big changes, but the landscape is the same. The smells of fir sap and seaweed are the same.The sounds of boat engines and raven calls are the same. The light reflects off the water just like it always did. I can still sit in the picnic shelter where I met the governor (Democratic Picnic) when I was in second grade. I can climb the rocks we always headed for as soon as we arrived, leaving our parents to set out the food. At low tide I can crouch by the tidepools and wait for the shy crabs and bullheads to become comfortable with my presence and carry on with their business. The stump that I always thought looked like a fairy portal still does.
One of the changes that has occurred over the years is the number of people who come here. In my childhood, we thought of it as our private playground, but now it is the most popular park in the state (understandably). On summer days the traffic on the bridge is bumper to bumper and people line up black along the railings, looking down into the rushing green water far below. The number of people visiting the tidepools one day in the nineties did such damage to the sealife that they still have not recovered. It is a public park and it is completely right that this exquisite area should be available to all, but like the national parks it is in danger of being loved to death.
In winter it reverts to a more recognizable state of calm. The campgrounds are closed on this side of the pass and I can walk from my house to the headlands under the bridge and see fewer people than agates on the beach. On this walk I met a class of college age people studying the geology of the rocky cliffs, some kayakers putting their slim water arrows into the bay, and a couple out with their puppy, introducing him to the joys of fetch in salt water. Its a great spot for all.