
This weekend an interesting article rolled up on my news feed from Vox: Millennials have dinner parties, they just don't call them that by Nisha Chittal.
The premise of the piece is that young people no longer have the money, space or interest in "entertaining" like people used to do, but still like getting together with their friends and sharing meals. The article shows pictures like the one above and sneers a little at the social climbing pretensions of the time:
" All of this is to say that as the dinner party evolved over modern history, the ability to throw a dinner party became a signifier of class status. Hosting a dinner party required having a home big enough to host gatherings and comfortably seat people at a dinner table, the money to supply guests with several courses of food and alcohol, the time to prepare elaborate meals, and the disposable income to furnish your home with sets of formal dinnerware, stemware, candles, table decor, and all the other trappings of formal dinner parties. Having a dinner party was a way to show off your extensive social connections, your wealth, your place in society. It was a sign of having good taste - which is ultimately about class anxiety."
In some ways the author is right about the social background she is describing, but I think it is funny that this article is using the tables of the fifties as a counterpoint to the new "nothing fancy" aesthetic of now. Unlike the author (probably, if she is a millennial) I remember the fifties, although the sixties are a little more clear. I read Emily Post and saw pictures in magazines and yes, felt social and class anxiety because my family was hanging on to the middle class by its fingernails, but a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then. The fifties were a time of expansion and possibility still anchored by stable institutions and norms, so I understand the nostalgia they engender, but the monumental changes that bring us to the present day left that old dinner party behind long ago.
My experience with dinner parties started just the way the author says people do it now. Like us, our neighbors and friends had children that we didn't want (or couldn't afford) to leave with babysitters, so we saw each other en masse, children in tow, in each other's houses for dinner. There was a lot of pot-luck...indeed we never showed up at someone's house without a contribution to the meal. I had a table and a dining room, so that was lucky, but only one set of dishes, the everyday stainless steel flatware I got when I married (I never even bothered to register for sterling) and glassware from the drugstore. It was enough, although sometimes I had to hurriedly wash forks and plates before dessert. Those evenings were so much fun! I had the long-time family experience of gathering for meals around the table, but these friend-centered occasions took the practice to a new level of enjoyment and connectedness. I looked forward to them and began to wonder how I could improve my cooking and make my table prettier. It was not about social climbing or class anxiety, it was about encouraging the sense of togetherness, affection, and just plain hilarity that those dinners produced. They showed me a way to be with the people I care about intensely and authentically. I am still grateful to my friends for helping me to see them and myself that way.